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The VintAxe Guitar Forum • View topic - 195?'s Rickenbacker

The VintAxe Guitar Forum

A Place for Vintage Guitar Enthusiasts to Pursue their Passion

195?'s Rickenbacker

Post here if you need help determining the value of a guitar you own or want to buy

Moderators: cheepaxes, VintAxe, Phizix

by cmtighe » Tue Jun 28, 2011 3:06 pm

I've had this in storage for a couple of decades. I don't play, don't collect, and I don't want this guitar to suffer because of my lack of interest. I'm curious as to what this is worth...any opinions? Any info would be greatly appreciated as well. Thank you all in advance for giving this rookie the time of day! :wink:

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by Spud1950 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:08 pm

It's a model 425. The 450 had two pickups,like this.

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Model 425 was made 1958-1984. Yours has the early metal headstock badge, which at some point changed to plastic. I can't find exactly what year that occurred, so it might be a very early 1960s. Can you find a serial number anywhere on the guitar? Here's the only one I can find for sale. The bridge and case are not original. It's a 1959.






Edit- Forgot to add that I can't find any pictures or mention of this model having that plastic piece on the back of the guitar. I have a feeling it was added on and is not original, but I'm not an expert.
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by cmtighe » Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:50 pm

Thanks Spud, for the reply. There are no visible #'s. Could they be under the pic-guard? Sorry - rookie here... but I don't want to take tools to this unless I have to.

Re:Edit: If I remember correctly, when I got this guitar I was told the front pic-guard in not original, but the back is. I found a similar guitar, but it's not mine:

http://www.normansrareguitars.com/produ ... t=0&page=1
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by Spud1950 » Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:33 pm

OK then,I guess the back plastic is original. By the way your guitar is what is known as the "Cresting Wave" body shape.Could be that there is a serial number hidden somewhere,but I wouldn't know for sure. Maybe this Rickenbacker forum will yeild some more definite info. Give it a try.Let us know what they say.

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by cmtighe » Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:22 pm

Yep, I just got my account approved there - and I didn't mean to sound abrupt about that back plate. It may not be original, and may not originally suppose to be there - I really don't know. Communication like this can be difficult, and I didn't want to come across wrong. I apologize if my "tone" was off. I appreciate your help and time, Spud. Thanks again.
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by Spud1950 » Wed Jun 29, 2011 5:43 pm

Saw your posting on that Rickenbacker forum. Check out this info from the Vintage Guitar Info site concerning Rickenbacker serial numbers.

"Solidbody Serial Numbers, 1954 to September 1959.

Number example: #(#)C####
Number is stamped on the jackplate or bridge.
Numeral(s) before letter designate model: 4=400 or 425, 6=600, 65=650, 8=800.
Letter (represented by "C" in above example) is type of instrument: C=combo (guitar), B=bass, M=mandolin, V=3/4 size.
First numeral after letter is year.
Last 3 numerals are number series.
Each model has its own series.
Example: 65C7123 = 1957 Combo 650, 4C6123 = 1956 Combo 400.
Exceptions:
Model 450 have 4C####A configuration.
3/4 size models have V###, V#### or ####A thru Oct 1960, first numeral is still last digit of year.
Basses have B#### configuration.
Mandolins have M### configuration.
Some examples have #C## configuration. Dateable by serial number.

Solidbody (except 3/4 sizes) Serial Numbers, Sept 1959 to Oct 1960.
Number configuration: #(#)A###.
Only 3 numerals after letter. Numbers do not contain date information. "

As you can see,the number you found on the bridge, 4C189, fits the Sept. 1959 to Oct. 1960 configuration.
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by cmtighe » Thu Jun 30, 2011 11:54 am

Thanks Spud, for the info. This is exactly what I was looking for! Tell me something if you would - one of my knobs is damaged. If I can find a replacement should I get it, or is the original knob better even if it's damaged? Thanks again, for everything.
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by Spud1950 » Thu Jun 30, 2011 7:52 pm

I wouldn't bother replacing the knob. Better to leave it in as original working condition as possible. Since you're intending to sell it,what I think should do is take it to a reputable guitar tech and get a good setup done so it plays and sounds as good as possible when a potential buyer tries it out.New strings, adjust the action and intonation,etc. If you don't know of one,ask around for recommendations. Living in Los Angeles, you shouldn't have a problem finding a good one.
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by cmtighe » Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:17 pm

Thanks again, Spud. Actually, I'm not that interested in selling. My interest in it's worth was mainly to determine if I should restore, and how much $$ I may want to invest if I do. If it's not worth that much, it doesn't make sense to throw a large amount of money into it, and since I'm totally ignorant, I thought I'd ask. Also, I'm not rich, so this would be an important decision. I can see now how I may have given the wrong impression. I will admit that selling has crossed my mind, but it wasn't my primary interest. Thanks for all your help, Spud. I will keep it og, clean, cool, and dry.
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